Table Talk: ROLi (Cuisine and Libations)

Nina: Table Talk is back… once again Maia and I attacked the culinary scene of New Haven. Today’s feature: ROLi, a four-month-old Euro-Hungarian restaurant in Wooster Square. 

Tori: And this time, I’m here too! What an honor this is. 

Maia: Nina spotted this restaurant walking back from Wooster Square. We scoured the menu, online photo gallery, and Google reviews. There was no question about it; this place had some serious potential. We booked our reservation for the next day.

Nina: There aren’t many restaurants in New Haven that attempt the European corner bistro look. ROLi does: and succeeds.

Maia: Tori graciously drove us to the restaurant, but Wooster Square is also a pleasant 20 minute walk from Old Campus (it’s where Sally’s Pizza is). As you approach ROLi, you’ll see a navy blue awning with bold, bronze eye-catching letters. The outdoor seating has blue and white woven gingham chairs that make you feel like you’ve been transported to a Parisian cafe. Upon arriving, we all looked at each other in unspoken agreement that this was a great choice for our next restaurant review. The exterior made us excited to enter and begin our meal.  

Nina: The interior is dark with navy walls, tall industrial ceilings, and a marquee board with the night’s features. One wall boasts a Bosch-esque mural, while others walls are detailed by liqueur-themed posters. The bar area–with 10 blue velvet seats–is abundant in multi-colored glass vases. Wooden tables create an approachable sensation among the extensive and elaborate interior design. 

Tori: There were dachshunds everywhere. The napkins, the windows, the logo. In the bathroom there’s a portrait of three mini dachshunds – and as it turned out, these are not just some random dogs. 

Nina: Later in the meal we talked to Angela, the co-owner of ROLi. She told us how the logo and abundance of dog symbolism are tributes to her three mini-dachshunds. She went on to explain how she spearheaded all of the interior design. 

Tori: Her husband, Roland, is the other co-owner and head chef. And let me tell you, he can whip up some mouth-watering dishes. 

Nina: The menu functions on a seasonal basis, with some nights having special features (Monday is schnitzel night, Tuesday is Hungarian night). The appetizers range from $15-$25, while the entrees are mostly in the $30 range. ROLi is a great spot for a special occasion, when a relative is in town, or a random Tuesday night when you’re feeling adventurous. 

Maia: We sat down and our waitress for the night told us a little about the restaurant and menu. 

Nina: Her name was Nina. Things were off to a great start. 

Maia: She told us the cauliflower and the branzino were must-gets, and she left the rest up to us. Immense indecision incoming. 

Nina: To make matters worse, it was Tuesday: Hungarian night, which meant there was a whole additional enticing menu. 

Victoria: Nina pulled out her Notes app and we started listing everything that sounded good. A few minutes later we had practically copied the entire menu down. 

Maia: We ended up ordering probably three-too-many dishes. But given that we ate it all, maybe it was just the right amount.

Nina: We went ham on the appetizers. We tried the charcuterie board, rainbow cauliflower, tempura squash blossom, peri peri shrimp, a caesar salad, and the langos, a feature of the Hungarian menu. 

Tori: Nina and Maia hesitated on the charcuterie and tempura blossom, but I pushed for them and we never looked back. Five minutes later the charcuterie board came flying out of the kitchen: a gorgeous assembly of brie, a deep orange aged gouda, prosciutto, soppressata, marcona almonds, fig jam, cornichons, and pâté. Soon after, the appetizer of the gods arrived: biting into the tempura squash blossom was a divine experience. Stuffed with ricotta, I would definitely give it a solid 12/10. 

Maia: The peri peri shrimp were doused in soft garlic, white wine, chili, lemon, and herbs. We got messy and ate it all. Pro-tip: get extra bread and soak up as much of that liquid gold as possible. The cauliflower was another hit; the acidic yogurt on the bottom combined with the warm spiced roasted cauliflower and toasted pine nuts for an addicting appetizer. Then, (waiter) Nina carried over this amazing funnel-cake-looking dish that immediately made us sit up a little straighter.

Nina: This was the Langos, a feature of the Hungarian menu. The base tasted exactly like savory funnel cake. It was topped with asiago cheese, sour cream, and garlic water. Every bite delivered crunch and comfort in the form of fried dough and dairy. 

Tori: Our final appetizer was the ROLi Caesar. On the caesar salad scale, I would definitely say that it falls on the anchovy-heavy side, but it carried a really great flavor. My favorite part of the caesar were the aspects that typical caesars don’t have: hearts of palm and tomatoes. 

Maia: We finished up the appetizers and were excited for the mains. Steak, mushrooms, and branzino. 

Tori: I only just recently started indulging in mushroom dishes; and this one is in the top three I’ve ever had. It was perfectly balanced with a slight balsamic tang. A gorgeous addition to our feast. 

Maia: By far our favorite dish was the branzino. The fish was served with seasonal features of corn puree and tomato-corn salad. The fish itself was flakey and moist with crispy skin. We licked the plate clean and can’t wait for its next rendition. 

Nina: The steak was incredibly tender and boasted a beautiful deep pink – the perfect rare. I will say, it could have been a bit more seasoned, but the au poivre sauce on the side made up for it. I think the potatoes that came with the steak were this dish’s strongest feature: crispy, doused in rosemary and onions, and cut in satisfyingly thin discs. 

Maia: We were STUFFED. But, like any good meal with Maia and Nina, especially with Victoria there too, we needed a little sweet treat. Nina walked over to our table after giving us a second with the dessert menus and asked if we had any thoughts. We were hesitant and asked her if the tiramisu or the sticky toffee pudding was better. No surprise – she loved both. And we kept looking at each other as if to say should we get both or is that crazy given that this would be the 12th dish of the night… As if reading our minds, (waiter) Nina told us that she knew we could finish both. Thanks for the encouragement Nina! And, well, she was right. 

Nina: While maybe it was (waiter) Nina’s persistence and faith in our expanding stomachs, it was also the seasonality of the menu that drove us to ordering so much food! We couldn’t dare miss out on corn and strawberry season now could we? 

Tori: Both desserts were great – Nina was partial to the sticky toffee pudding while Maia and I obsessed over the strawberry take on a tiramisu. 

Maia: After we finished grubbing, Angela and (waiter) Nina graciously brought over the check and told us how well we did with our ordering quantities. Everyone had obviously underestimated our eating abilities.

Nina: With the check, the staff brings your table postcards. You’re encouraged to write a letter to someone and leave it on the table – Angela goes and sends them out every morning. I’d never gone to a restaurant with this concept before, and I absolutely loved it. It made me feel all the more grateful for the meal I just had and time with my friends. I wrote home to tell my parents about the experience. And–bonus points for the dachshund-themed postcards. 

Tori: We loved ROLi and are eager to return. Everything about the experience was top-notch. The food, the vibes, the dogs, the people. If you’re in the mood for a delicious meal and experiencing joy, check ROLi out – and pray that they have the mushrooms and corn salad on the menu.