Where East Rock Rises

Pastry Chef (can I call myself this?) Tarek Al Husseini Reviews East Rock Breads

Walking into East Rock Breads, I was immediately hit with a mixture of comforting scents: the aromatics of coffee, freshly baked sourdough, and a faint hint of cardamom from a stunning display of baked goods. It is the pinnacle of a small local business; neighbors banter with each other and the staff as they fill the store. A Saturday morning bakery visit is a weekly tradition for East Rock locals. 

As someone who has been on multiple Food Network baking competitions, I’d like to think that I can recognize and appreciate the quality of good technique. I could see the diligent lamination and a sign of a well-developed gluten structure through the glass. Approaching the counter, the first question I asked was “What do you recommend?” The cashier said, “Everything.” This wasn’t a market gimmick. After sampling a variety of their homemade pastries, breads and desserts, I can confidently say that picking a favorite is an impossible task. While I do in fact recommend everything, I will do my best to rank the goodies I tried at East Rock Bread.

1. Pecan Sticky Bun

There is nothing like a sticky bun. A warm, gooey, and soft pastry topped with sweet toasted pecans is textbook perfection. This pecan sticky bun, however, manages to exceed that with a lovely surprise– enter lamination. Lamination is the technique used in croissant and puff pastry making that gives a baked product crisp, buttery layers. Imagine all the best parts of a sticky bun, then combine them with a flaky croissant and pecans instead of almonds; that is what you get at East Rock Breads. I have no critiques for this pastry. 

2. Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Danish

When I read “Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Danish,” I was very intrigued. “How do they manage to cook this so the egg is perfectly runny?” “Will this be better than my go-to Gheav sandwich?” Clearly, I was asking the important questions. What I should’ve been asking is “Why haven’t I ever thought of this?” This pastry’s highlight was (also) its lamination; each layer was crispy, and the egg yolk was jammy. The taste? Impeccable. The salty bacon, jammy egg, and creamy cheese, combined with the buttery pastry, created a symphony of breakfast-table tastes and French patisserie-level textures. The only reason this ranks second is that I have a sweet tooth, but when I go back, you best believe I will be ordering another one of these. 

3. Cardamom Buns

The first time I had a cardamom bun was in Mallorca; the second time was at Atticus. They quickly became a favorite of mine. Unfortunately, East Rock Breads has ruined other cardamom buns for me. The dough was extremely soft and moist. I wonder whether a tangzhong, a technique used in Asian bread-making, was used in the dough, given how soft it was. My suspicion is that it was the beautifully developed gluten structure and the high fat-to-flour ratio. Cardamom is also very difficult to balance, but in this bun, it was done with precision. My favorite part, however, was the crystallization of the sugar on the bottom of the bun. It made for a lovely crunch that complemented the soft bread, and I am going to try to incorporate it into my own version in the future. 

4. Mixed Berry Scone

I must admit that I am not usually a fan of scones. “But Tarek, why did you rank this fourth?” Great question! The answer is that this scone converted me into a scone fan. My usual issue with scones is that they are a) boring and b) dry. This one, however, was neither of those things. The scone had a very moist interior, almost like a brownie.  It was nutty and robust from its unique combination of specialty flours, which I suspect were whole wheat. The mixed berry jam and accompanying whipped butter lended itself to a deeper flavor profile– but I don’t think the scone needed them. I would have loved to see this done with fruit mixed into the dough rather than jam on top. But no complaints. It was delicious. 

5. Pistachio-Almond Croissant

Anyone who knows me knows I love almond croissants and pistachios. So, when I saw this pastry, it was a must-have. It was presented beautifully, with a bright green topping and a smooth, gooey filling pouring out the sides. It was magazine-cover-worthy. The croissant had a pungent marzipan flavor and a crisp texture that perfectly juxtaposed with its soft interior. It was a solid croissant with good lamination. It was a little difficult to assess accurately, however, because there was so much filling inside. Personally, I would’ve preferred a little less, so I could have adequately tasted the croissant aspect of the pistachio-almond croissant. 

6. Chicken Pot Pie Handpie

I was curious about this hand pie since, from my experience, chicken pot pie can be either really good or really bad. This one, thankfully, was really good. It may not be a looker (handpies usually aren’t in my opinion), but the flavor was super herby and utterly comforting. It wasn’t anything I haven’t had before, and I do think this warrants a place in my ranking. The pastry was good, a standard pie crust, but it wasn’t as delicate or flaky as the sticky bun or the danish. Yes, it was an unleavened dough, but I am still a believer that pies and hand pies should be crisp and flaky, not crumbly. I also wish this had been warmed up, since it probably would’ve made it even better. Regardless, I highly recommend this pastry to anyone looking for something comforting. 

7. Coffee Madeleine

Last, but certainly not least, is the Coffee Madeleine. Originally, this wasn’t going to be part of the order, but the cashier explained that East Rock Breads rotates madeleine flavors weekly, so I had to pounce on this one-time opportunity. (That’s how they get you, isn’t it). They are only $2.50, making them a perfect accompaniment to a morning coffee or tea. Flavor-wise, this was a little underwhelming. I think the sweet, earthy glaze was fabulous, but the flavor of the madeleine itself was a bit boring. I think this would be good with a bitter espresso.  The texture was moist, and it’s, technically speaking, a good madeleine. I am excited to see what flavors they bring into rotation next, because I think this one is definitely worth another shot. 

As a pastry connoisseur, I was very impressed by the quality and creativity of the selection I tried at East Rock Breads. This local neighborhood gem is abundant in expertise and craftsmanship. East Rock Breads has managed to make its way into my mix of regular spots to hit in New Haven, and I am beyond excited to make my way back for round two of these laminated, yeasted, cakey goodies.